Wool HandleMeter

The handle of a garment or fabric describes how it feels when you touch it with your hands. Handle terms such as soft and smooth are critical for first impressions when a customer examines a garment.  Note that fabric handle is different to the handle of raw wool.

In fabrics, three key components account for most aspects of handle:

Yarn characteristics: These include the diameter of the fibres and the yarn twist (how tightly the fibres in the yarn are twisted together). A looser twist tends to make a fabric feel softer but it can also negatively impact other fabric performance traits.

Fabric characteristics: The knit structure, e.g. jersey or rib, will affect the softness and smoothness of a fabric, as will the tightness of the knit (looser knits feel softer).

Fabric finishing: Many processes can be changed in finishing, altering the handle and appearance of a knitted fabric. In general, more finishing results in a ‘hairier’ finish, which gives a softer handle.

The Sheep CRC has developed a Wool HandleMeter™ that can provide a prediction for a range of fabric handle attributes such as softness, smoothness, cool-feel etc. The meter will be used in the wool supply chain for product development, quality assurance and quality control.

Potential Benefits:

• Specification of handle attributes to meet consumer demand, differing with product end use, season and cultural requirements;
• Minimum standards to assure handle;
• Consistent handle through monitoring of product lines.

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