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SKIN COMFORTMETER FOR KNITTED WOOL FABRICS


Project Leader

Mr David Tester

Tel: 0434 600 164
Email - david.tester@sheepcrc.org.au

Latest Updates

A full time research fellow has been appointed at Deakin University, for the ongoing research into wool comfort and has three Comfort Meters complete and operational. Also the CRC fabric library and Wool Program database are being populated.
 
The sixth wearer trial, which extended the micron range of fabrics, has been completed and the 7th trial, which is using fabrics made by new supply chain companies, is underway. The latest trial looks at the role of yarn twist in woolen next to skin comfort as it changes the effective length of the protruding fibres, and therefore their rigidity.
 
All supply chain fabrics that arrived last quarter were tested on both the Phabrometer and the Comfort Meter and reports provided back to the supply chains, including meter results and comments. Included among the fabrics were three that included “mercerized” wool from an AWI promoted chlorination process. These fabrics all gave results that would be associated with fabrics made from finer wool, prompting the purchase of this product from European and Chinese sources for inclusion in the 8th wearer trial.
 
A meeting of ultrafine wool growers in Armidale resulted in an extension of the wool handle and comfort projects to see if the instrument outcomes can be used to support a value proposition for ultrafine wool. Four bales of wool, matched for fibre characteristics and differing in style have been identified and purchased for processing in Italy and conversion into lightweight next to skin knitwear.

About the Project

This Project will develop and commercialise practical fabric measurement technology and related know-how to enable the production and marketing of wool garments meeting critical next to skin performance criteria for consumers in the key emergent wool apparel markets. In so doing, it will provide the wool apparel industry with the mechanism needed to address the strong negative association of the word ‘wool’ with ‘prickle and itch’, and foster development of new markets for wool knitwear where next-to-skin comfort is required.

In collaboration with supply chain partners, this project will develop a commercial instrument for direct measurement of the skin comfort ('prickliness’) of wool knitted fabrics, calibrated against human responses in key target product and regional markets. While the weight of focus in the first year is necessarily on quickly achieving proof of concept for the instrumentation development, the balance of effort in subsequent years will shift toward human response measurement, for calibration of the instrument.

At present, in order to guarantee good next to skin comfort outcome, most next-to-skin capable baselayer wool knitwear is manufactured using Merino fibre of less than 18.5 microns, of which Australia supplies over 95% of world requirements, and which in turn represents around 20% of the Australian clip volume.
 
The commercial impact of this project will be through provision of a new Quality Control tool for wool knitwear manufacturers and retailers for the critical garment performance criteria of next-to-skin comfort. This will provide the demand chain with far more effective means of specifying skin comfort outcomes from wool knitwear, and provide manufacturers with the ability to more effectively engineer garment next to skin performance by optimising fibre and processing variables.
 
The expected net result will be increased preferential demand for fine Australian wool (< 19.5 microns), especially given success in related research efforts directed at wool whiteness and photo-stability, and fabric handle. Importantly, it is anticipated that this Project will widen the proportion of the Australian clip presently able to be supplied to the next-to-skin knitwear market.

Contact Details:
Mr David Tester
Project Leader
Skin Comfortmeter for Knitted Wool Fabrics
Tel: 0434 600 164
Email - david.tester@sheepcrc.org.au


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