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DESIRABLE, SPECIFIED HANDLE IN MERINO WOOL FABRICS


Project Leader

Dr Trevor Mahar

Australian Wool Testing Authority

Latest Updates - Winter 2010

Measurements from the Phabrometer instrument designed to measure wool handle attributes have been related to fabric assessments from expert judges. The handle assessment of 52 library fabrics by 12 expert judges has been compared to Phabrometer measures. Key fabric handle attributes are: Rough – Smooth; Hairy – Clean; Hard – Soft; Warm – Cool; Heavy – Light; Loose – Tight; Greasy – Dry. Correlations between the Phabrometer and the expert judge’s assessment using these attributes and a rating of Overall Handle range from 0.79 for Heavy – Light to 0.96 for Overall Handle (R² between 0.63 & 0.92).
 
The selected algorithms, using Phabrometer extraction curve parameters plus fabric thickness and weight, are being validated using a panel of expert judges and a set of 22 fabrics. The validation set of fabrics consists mainly of new fabrics but also some from the original library to evaluate rating consistency.

About the Project

This project will establish the specification technology required to provide garment developers with effective tools for benchmarking and engineering knitted fabric handle, and establish the commercial and genetic linkages required to ensure commercial uptake.

This project will develop, with commercial partners in the wool apparel supply chain, fabric measurement instrumentation and associated know-how which enable achievement of predictable handle characteristics desired by the consumer.

The assessed quality of knitwear handle is important to consumers when considering garments for purchase, and a major contributor to purchase disposition. In providing knitters and retailers with the ability to better target and specify wool knitwear handle, the economic impact of this development will be greatest in the global wool knitwear production hubs, now in Asia (e.g. mainland China, Hong Kong, Vietnam) – leading to product quality improvement, and in concert with research focused on next-to-skin comfort and wool whiteness, ensure wool knitwear meets the tough performance criteria required in the emergent trans-seasonal knitwear markets (casualwear).


Contact Details:
Dr Trevor Mahar
Project Leader
Desirable, Specified Handle in Merino Wool Fabrics
Tel: 02 9892 7040
Email - trevor.mahar@awta.com.au


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